How to Look After Raw Denim

A new pair of raw denim jeans can very nearly stand up on its own. The cloth comes off the loom, gets cut and sewn, and goes to the wearer without the washing, stonewashing or sanding that most jeans go through at the factory. It is stiff, dark and a bit uncomfortable for the first few weeks. That is the point. Every crease and faded patch that appears afterward is put there by you.

The first few months

Raw denim needs wearing, and often. The indigo dye sits near the surface of the yarn and rubs away where the fabric bends and chafes: behind the knees, across the lap, around whatever you keep in your pockets. Wear the jeans as many days a week as you can stand and the cloth will soften and start to take your shape.

Two things to know early:

• Indigo transfers. New raw denim leaves blue on pale sofas, white sneakers and light-coloured bags. It eases after the first wash.
• Some denim shrinks. Sanforized denim has been pre-shrunk at the mill and will change very little. Unsanforized denim can shrink noticeably in its first soak, so read the maker's notes before choosing a size, and soak before hemming.

The catalogue entries for women's denim and men's denim give the fabric weight and fit of each pair.

When to wash

You will hear people say never. Ignore them. Dirt, sweat and skin oils wear down cotton fibres, and jeans that are never washed tend to tear at the crotch and knees sooner. The sensible advice is to wash less often than you are used to, and to hold off on the first wash for a few months if you want strong contrast in the fades.

After that, wash when the jeans are dirty or smell. Between washes, hang them outside or by an open window overnight and spot-clean marks with a damp cloth. The freezer trick does little, by the way. Cold does not reliably kill the bacteria that cause odour, and the smell comes back as the denim warms up.

How to wash

1. Turn the jeans inside out and do up the buttons or zip.
2. Use cold water and a small amount of mild detergent with no bleach or optical brighteners.
3. Wash by hand in a tub, or on a gentle machine cycle with a low spin, alone or with other dark things.
4. Reshape while wet, pulling the legs straight and smoothing the seams.
5. Hang to dry out of direct sun. Keep them out of the dryer, which shrinks the cloth, sets hard creases and wears it thin.

They will feel stiff again once dry. An hour of wear fixes that.

Repair early

Denim fails in predictable places: the crotch, the inner thighs, the corners of the back pockets, the hems. Catch thin spots before they become holes. A tailor or denim repair shop can darn a weak area by machine, running rows of thread over a backing patch, and a good darn is hard to see. At home, a hand-stitched patch on the inside does the job, and visible mending in a contrasting thread has its own appeal.

Check the hems as well. Jeans that drag on the ground fray quickly, so have them taken up or wear them cuffed.

Why the long life matters

Cotton is a thirsty crop, and growing, dyeing and sewing a pair of jeans uses a good deal of water and energy before anyone puts them on. Nothing about raw denim cancels that out. What changes the sum is how long the jeans stay in use. One pair worn for years and repaired a few times stands in for several pairs that would otherwise have been bought and thrown away. Washing less and drying on a line also saves water and power at home.

When the jeans are finally past wearing, cut the legs off for shorts, or keep the good cloth for patching the next pair.